Synergy by Elite Archery!
Posted 18 January 2007 - 10:02 PM
Elite Archery is started/owned by the former chief Engineer at Bowtech and his wife (the girl who posed for Martin Bows). Upon his return of thier honeymoon-he was released by Bowtech, thus staring his own gig. They look alot like a Bowtech(go figure) but faster! They IBO @ 339 fps if I'm correct. I shot one turned down to 64# and 100 grain tip, 27 1/2 inch arrow(350grains) and she chronoed 328 fps. It was smooth and quiet. It is a little different than my mathews when drawing(loading). It has a more radical point on the cam(like my old PSE) as opposed to a "round" cam(mathews)...but I think I can get used to that. The guy who owns the shop has 1(prolly a freebie), he uses his 1st pin for his 20-30-40-50 yd shot! I'm doing 20 & 30 w/my first pin! There was a gentlman there shooting his, practicing for Africa. His had a tad over 100# kinetic energy. I think I found a flamethrower to take to the dark Continent with me next year!
Posted 18 January 2007 - 11:40 PM
A 70lb model of that bow is plenty of plains game medicine Tony. Just stick with at least a 450grn arrow ;)
Posted 19 January 2007 - 09:10 AM
Posted 19 January 2007 - 10:03 AM
sticknstring let us know how you like it? :yes:
Posted 19 January 2007 - 02:06 PM
Bow tuning aside. In my experience above 280fps you need to do some work on tuning your arrows as well.
I wonder if they have a web site up? Links then to a deal near you! :yes: My worry as you get up in speed that fixed blade broadhead wants to fly on it's own and takes alot of tuning.
Couple things to keep in mind, shooting faster than 280fps.
1. FOCs need to be alot higher. On carbon shafts particularly this means over 10%. This also tends to drive you to a heavier than you thought you needed head. (ie a 125 vs a 100) Going to a heavier head reduces spine. You might be ok, might not. But you may have to turn the poundage down if it creates an under spine scenerio. The other way to up FOC without changing head weights is lighter fletchings (ie. feathers or blazers). Lighter nocks and gluing fletchings a little forward of standard are other games you can play. The reason FOC is so important is the less FOC you have the more a fixed head can get bite and plane out. A higher FOC reduces this effect. If you balance an arrow on your finger the less distance between head and finger the more work and less force the fletchings need.
2. Spin is crucial. Without a good spin fast arrows act crazy. A long vane with an aggressive helix looks like it would be better but it's usually not. A short stiff slightly offset vane wins this game every time. Longer vanes loose almost all of their spin adding power at higher velocities. It's a fluid dynamics issue but in a nutshell at higher velocities less vane surface area produces plenty off spin torque. Too much area and big fletchings create too much turbulence and stall out. It's similar to putting a very aggressive prop on a boat. Spin that prop too fast and the boat goes no where.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users