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Tech Question- Draw Length Adj


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#1 silvertip-co

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Posted 27 April 2007 - 06:23 AM

As an example a Mathews bow I am looking at is 28-31" draw- 60-70#. Now I need 28" draw(30" anchors on my ear)... so is my 28"@60# or 28"@70# ??? And if I increase the draw to 30" does that mean we are at 50# or something less???
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#2 Jeremiah

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Posted 27 April 2007 - 08:01 AM

Be aware that most bows in the Mathews line-up are not draw length adjustable without changing the cam and that changing a cam requires a bow press and/or technician assistance. On the Mathews website and in the catalogs, they only list a draw length range to indicate what length cams are available for a particular bow. A new cam retails anywhere from $50 to $90 all depending on the dealer. So, it will behoove you to know exactly what length you need before you ever make a purchase. If it's 28" for you, that is all you should entertain the notion of purchasing.

Draw weight is independent from draw length with most of the Mathews line. Only the limbs control the poundage. In other words, if you have a Mathews bow with 50-60# pound limbs you will only be able to adjust it over that weight range regardless of whether you put a 27" cam on the bow or a 30" cam. Seventy pound max or 60 pound max is a personal preference. Most people I deal with turn down a 70# bow at least half way. So, I tend to advocate 50-60#; especially since most Mathews bows peak 3 to 4 pounds over their max anyway. (In other words, if you want to shoot 63#, then a 50-60# Mathews bow in proper tune with the limb bolts turned all the way in will get you there.)

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#3 Leo

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Posted 01 May 2007 - 12:28 PM

Beware buying a bow off Ebay that's not already at your drawlength. As Jeremiah stated you will need a certified proshop to fix it and probably new Cams or Modules.

Most Pro-shops won't do that work for free on an Ebay bow. And some for liability reasons simply will not touch it.
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#4 Rowdy Yates

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Posted 02 May 2007 - 10:03 AM

It's been my experience with Ebay and buying bows - and I have bought three off there - has been pretty good.

Like Leo and Jeremiah said its better to buy right knowing exactly what you want than trying to make a bow work that's the wrong size. Definitely get the right fitting bow - then taking it to a Pro shop is a lot easier to have the other things done to it to make it shoot bullet holes. Count on paying the Pro shop a labor rate fee but if you buy a sight or a rest from them and have them put it on the labor charge is sometimes waved off to have them to get it center shot setup.

My .02 - and by all means ask the seller everything up front and look into the seller's history before committing to the bid.
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#5 Rowdy Yates

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Posted 03 May 2007 - 04:04 PM

http://www.pabucks.com/bow_draw_length.html


I posted this earlier and it might be better in this one. It's an easy reference on how to measure your draw length. One of the primary things to better archery. Enjoy.
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#6 silvertip-co

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Posted 07 May 2007 - 07:18 AM

http://www.pabucks.com/bow_draw_length.html
I posted this earlier and it might be better in this one. It's an easy reference on how to measure your draw length. One of the primary things to better archery. Enjoy.



Thanks for the link. I know 30" is too long cause I had the bow pro at Goods for the Woods in Durango adj it to 29" (the bow's short limit) and thats still too long for me. So it's gotta be 28 I figure.

I just bought my wife a 40# Martin Prowler in really nice shape offa eBay and she cant pull it, but she can hold it once its pulled. Told her when she goes to the gym she better work them ;) arms and shoulders.
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