I would like to share with you the best method I have come across for tying in a fall-away arrow rest cord. I came to know this method in my time working at Sportsman's Warehouse. (And you thought they were just an "icky box store". ) The thing that sets this method apart from others and makes it superior is that it does not need to be reset whenever twists are added to the bow cable for tuning purposes. It will also work on strings with serving/coatings such as "X-Coat" and even steel cables! Further, the only tools needed for this method are braided center serving (such as BCY 62XS) or waxed B-50 (Your preference. I like the center serving for the extra "bite".) and a cigarette lighter or other similar source of flame. No bow press required!
They say a picture paints 1,000 words...
So, how do we get there?
We need to begin by noting that the method of serving used on the cable above the rest cord (and throughout the picture) is basically a cow hitch followed by a series of over-hand knots best illustrated below.
The reason for using this method of serving is that, as you can see in the images, it provides for a little more bulk on the cable. This is important because the rest cord is actually wrapped around the cable, not put through it.
First, attach the rest cord to your rest by looping it through the hole (or around the knob on Mathews rests) and serving over the cord. Only use 2 to 3 successive serving knots here and do not snug this serving down tightly. Leave it just loose enough that the rest cord can slide through the serving if pulled with moderate force. Once served, fray the end of the cord and hold a lighter near the end to create a "burn ball". Pull the cord to snug the burn ball against the serving.
Second, run a length of serving on the bow cable so that the bottom is approximately 1" below where the cord attaches to the arrow rest (or wherever the rest manufacturer recommends as a starting point for optimum timing).
Note: On a Mathews roller guard bow, you only need to run a few knots worth of serving below where the factory serving on the cable ends. On steel cables, I recommend substituting the serving for a crimp on brass nock set. On cables with a coating, such as "X-Coat", you may want to run an inch or two of standard back-served "center serving" above the over-hand knot serving just to secure it from ever sliding as at times the over-hand knot serving can slip if not pulled very tight on the cable. (You know you are pulling the over-hand knot serving tight enough on the cable if it is cutting into your fingers. )
Third, wrap the rest cord around the cable below the over-hand cable serving you just completed. Serve over the cord in the same manner as before. Again, use only 2 or 3 knots here and do not worry about pulling this serving too tight as you actually want the cord to be able to slide through the serving.
Fourth, slowly draw the bow allowing the rest cord to slide through the serving to time the rise of the rest.
Fifth, cut and burn the end of the rest cord wrapped around the cable snug against the serving.
Final tweaking of the rest, such as making it rise a little sooner, can be done by sliding the cord down the cable and adding another knot or two worth of serving to the bow cable. You may also want to serve below the cord on the cable as I did on my bow above.
The end result is a fall-away rest cord that will stay put yet has the flexibility of spinning freely on the cable for tuning purposes (adding twists to the cable to compensate for stretch/creep/settling). In my opinion, it also looks "cleaner" than many other methods I have seen. Not needing a bow press just means you can do it anywhere, including in the field. It's a winner all around.
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Tying In A Fall-away Rest Cord
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