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Stock Refinishing


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#1 PA RIDGE RUNNER

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Posted 03 July 2007 - 08:07 PM

I have finished/refinished several stocks and used homer Formby's tung oil to do it everytime. Has anyone done a refinish job using something else. How did it come out.
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#2 REDGREEN

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Posted 04 July 2007 - 01:51 PM

I have done lots of them with boiled linseed oil. They always turn out great. After the first coat, I steel wool the whole stock, then another coat and more steel wool. This gets rid of all of the little bristles that spring up after the first and second coating. Then, another 5 or 6 coatings, and it's good to go. You can thin out the linseed with laquer thinner for the first coating, if you want to. If you happen to scratch it while out playing, it's a simple fix. Just rub a little more linseed into the wound, and its repaired.

#3 Spirithawk

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Posted 08 July 2007 - 01:20 PM

Paul, I use Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil. After it's applied you can leave it alone, for a hard high gloss finish, or lightly sand it and buff with fine steel wool for an oil finish. I've used it for around 30 years, done more guns than I can remember, and it does an excellent job if done right. I apply it with a finger, lightly sand between coats, and apply at least 3 coats. Get a scratch? No problem. The fix is as easy as dipping the tip of your finger in the jar, wipping it across the scratch and letting it dry. Scratch disapears. I also like the way it ages on a gun. Hard to exsplain but the longer it's on the more it seems to bring out the grain and the luster of the wood. :D

#4 Charles

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Posted 09 July 2007 - 08:34 AM

I use a half and half of linseed oil and polyurethane. I do about the same thing as above with it and they are very nice in the end. They look more like fine furniture then anything else. They are very glossy. That's the look I like. If you want a more dull finish just steel wool with 00 and it will dull it down but not loose the fine finish. It can take about 20 to 30 coats to become real shiny. It's worth it.

Oh and they are easy to fix. Just rub more on if you need it.
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#5 Leo

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Posted 09 July 2007 - 03:19 PM

Practically whatever staining method you choose to use can benefit by using Pre-stain conditioners (like the one MinWax makes). Even on wood that was previously stained the conditioners help.

Trust me on this one folks. It will take quite a few less coats of stain to get the job done if you condition the wood first. The conditioner allows the stain to soak in more evenly. Be sure to apply the first coat after the the conditioner dries in the next two hours.

The most common mistake folks make staining is not waiting long enough in between coats for the wood to get "thirsty" again. Yes, you can steelwool or sand it dry between coats but IME that removes stain that would have eventually soaked in if you just waited. Here because of outrageously high humidity it often takes 1 to 2 days for stain to dry enough between coats. That means a stock can easily take over a week. You can simply wait for it to be dry enough or do three times as many coats and sandings to get the exact same result.
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#6 Spirithawk

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Posted 09 July 2007 - 06:46 PM

Leo's sure right. Prep of the wood sure makes a differance. The Birchwood Casey Co. also makes a wood filler and conditioner that works great.




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