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Typical Problem With Less Expensive Locks


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#1 PA RIDGE RUNNER

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Posted 27 February 2008 - 06:23 PM

Eric and I have had our share of a problem with the less expensive locks in that the frizzen does not mate with the top of the flashpan which results in losing pan powder during the hunt through the gap between the flash pan and frizzen. I have worked on Erics Lyman lock before but did not get the gap to close enough to stop losing the fine 4f powder. Last night we undertook to take care of the problem. Here is how I take care of that problem. First remove the lock assembly from the stock. Close the frizzen and view the crack between the pan and frizzen. You will need a lit candle for the next step which is to blacken the underside of the frizzen.

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The underside of the frizzen must be completely blackened which is best done at the upper tip of the candle flame. Once blackened the frizzen is then snapped shut. Open the frizzen and you should have a black mark or marks on the flash pan where the blackened frizzen touched.

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Although not real easily seen the black marks on the flashpan can be seen. This is actually where we quit. We started with just a black mark on the lower near corner.

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After closing the lock and finding where the frizzen was touching I then carefully used my dremel tool and a grinding wheel to carefully grind the black mark from the flash pan edge. This must be done very carefully and only a tiny bit is taken off. The blackening of the frizzen is repeated and again snapped shut to reveal where the high spot(s) still are. Again the dremel tool is used to take the black marks off. This procedure is repeated till the black mark(s) show up nearly all way around. I also use the light procedure throughout the grinding to mark my progress at closing the gap.

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The last picture was taken after we finished the lock and shows no light between the frizzen and the flash pan. Something else to look for at the beginning is a lump or small high spot on the underside of the frizzen which can be taken off before beginning the gap closing process. This simple but time consuming job can save many dollars at a gunsmith. A little cold blueing and the job is finished with a lock that don't leak your pan powder out.
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#2 cayugad

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Posted 27 February 2008 - 07:20 PM

Really good information. I guess I am lucky in that my locks are nice and tight.
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#3 Eric

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Posted 27 February 2008 - 08:27 PM

Yeah Cayugad PA and I have been working on this lock for years BUT I think we finaly got it this time.
I was throwing the thought around of buying an L&R lock for it but pop wanted us to work on it more before I went and spent the BIG $$$$$ on one. I can't complain this flinter throws lots of spark and a flint lasts a very long time so I will keep it the way it is. ;)

Edited by Eric, 27 February 2008 - 08:29 PM.

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#4 McBruce

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Posted 27 February 2008 - 09:19 PM

great post guys :)
guess ya got that digital camera figure out eric :)
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#5 PA RIDGE RUNNER

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Posted 27 February 2008 - 09:59 PM

Thanks Bruce. That camera was actually my camera. I have found that I can get as close as 4 inches and still get a good pic with it set for closeup. I have a few more pics to take so plan to play some more.

Cayugad really check for a gap if you have to change frizzens on your rifles as the new one may not mate quite like the old one.

Edited by PA RIDGE RUNNER, 27 February 2008 - 10:01 PM.

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#6 Eric

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Posted 28 February 2008 - 05:21 PM

great post guys :)
guess ya got that digital camera figure out eric :)


Bruce I'm working with my new camera so my pics are getting better. :D
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