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#1 runNgun

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Posted 24 June 2008 - 08:17 PM

Tonight I finally bought a fletching jig: Bohning Jig . What kind of glue should I get? I was looking at all of the kinds of glues Cabela's had and wasn't sure what kind I should get for carbon arrows. What should I use to strip the old vanes off? Can I use a razor blade or should I use a stripping tool? Are there any other tips I should know about?

Also, does anyone else have this jig? It seems like the plastic clamp doesn't get a very tight grip on the vane because it can kind of pull off without much effort. There is a slight gap in the middle of the clamp unless I squeeze the middle together. Maybe I should return it?
-Eric

#2 Rowdy Yates

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Posted 25 June 2008 - 07:59 AM

Hey Run if you go to the Cabelas web site or this link Cabelas you'll see Norway Zip-Strip Fletching Stripper. It works great for me to strip off the old vanes and glue on the shafts. I have also used box cutter type knife on clean up on the shafts on stubborn glue just be careful you don't dig into the shaft with either tool.

The best glue I have found is Goat Tuff Glue for vanes to carbon. I have read about how good but have not tried the instant glue gel. The gel is the key and it's found at most large box stores like Home Depot.


Sorry Run I have never tried the Bohning jig. I might add if it's adjustable to forming the helical curve of a vanes to the shafts and it holds it tight to the shaft then it should work.
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#3 Spirithawk

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Posted 25 June 2008 - 01:50 PM

Did anyone see the episode of Archers Choice where they advertised arrow wraps with the veins attatched? You simply slide the wrap on over the shaft, hold it in hot water for a minute and it shrinks to a tight fit on the shaft. You kill two birds with one stone, new arrow wrap and perfectly attatched new veins.

#4 Jeremiah

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Posted 25 June 2008 - 06:13 PM

I have never used that jig, so I can't speak on it. The Bitzenburger is considered the gold standard, however. If you have the money, go that route. Personally, I've used the Arizona EZ Fletch in professional settings every bit as much as the Bitz and have never had a problem with them. But, most will tell you that you need a single fletcher. To each their own. :peace:

As to fletching glue... I definitely prefer Goat Tuff to anything else going for carbon arrows. (I like good ol' Bohning Fletch Tite on aluminum.) Cyanoacrylate is the main ingredient in Goat Tuff as well as most "Super Glues". Goat Tuff tends to "frost" (turn brittle and white) FAR less than any Super Glue, gel or otherwise, in my experience (supposedly due to an additive). As a bonus, I've also had pretty good luck using Goat Tuff on inserts as well.

For stripping, I used a dull razor blade for a lot of years, but there was still always the chance of nicking a carbon. I started using the Norway Zip-Strip a few years back and won't use anything else now. (Also makes quick work of wraps and paint dip.)

Concerning pre-fletched-wraps... I first saw them three or four years back at the World's Archery Festival in Pittsburgh. (A company rep was there selling them.) The least impressive aspect, frankly what keeps me from ever using or recommending them, is the fact that the offset or helical on the vanes is applied by hand-twisting the wrap as you shrink it down to the arrow. This makes it nearly impossible to repeat vane alignment (degree of offset or helical) from arrow to arrow. Since even "straight fletch" arrows are still technically a one degree offset, this is for sure an issue.

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#5 Leo

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Posted 26 June 2008 - 12:30 PM

I like the Arizona EZ fletcher too Jere. It really does do a fine job if you can resist the urge to squeeze the heck out of it when gluing fletchings. That's where I see issues. If you squeeze that jig it will wrinkle and twist fletchings everytime!

Loctite Super Glue GEL works very well as a fletching adhesive. It frosts less and is tougher than the Bohning Instant I used to use.

If you coat your jig with Car Wax before you use it. It cleans up easier. ;) Just make sure the wax is dry before you use it or it mixes with your glue.

Squirt the glue into a small puddle on a paper plate and use a toothpick to apply it. This gives you more control than squeezing it directly out of the tube onto the fletch.
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#6 FrankSr

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Posted 27 June 2008 - 07:54 PM

I have the Grayling jig with all three clamps. There is not susposed to be a gap in the clamp. Yours may be defective. I use the Fletch tite Platinum on all my carbons with no whitening. I use a fletch stripping tool.

Edited by FrankSr, 27 June 2008 - 07:55 PM.


#7 runNgun

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Posted 28 June 2008 - 12:30 AM

Tonight I did 5 of the 6 hunting arrows with Fletch Tite Platinum and orange and white blazers and I'd say it went all right (the last shaft's nock broke in half). I'm not sure how well they will work because I tried to position the blazers as far back as they are on my older target arrows but the new blazers aren't as helical, almost straight it seems, because the clamp doesn't curve as much. Maybe I have try again sometime but move the Blazers forward a bit. I'm just not sure how forward I can go.

The orange/white/green/camo combination does look pretty sweet though!
-Eric

#8 Jeremiah

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Posted 28 June 2008 - 07:35 AM

I generally orient vanes/feathers as far back on the arrow as I can without them touching my face when I shoot.

It seems like most folks only go with an offset on Blazers, so I think you are probably fine. I'd try shooting the arrows to see how they fly before doing anything. :)

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#9 runNgun

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Posted 28 June 2008 - 12:23 PM

One thing that surprised me a little was that I could just dig my fingernail under a corner of the stock vanes and basically rip them off without any tools and there would just be just a little glue around the outline of where the vane was.


Thanks for all the help everyone!
-Eric

#10 Leo

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Posted 10 July 2008 - 03:32 PM

One thing that surprised me a little was that I could just dig my fingernail under a corner of the stock vanes and basically rip them off without any tools and there would just be just a little glue around the outline of where the vane was.


Thanks for all the help everyone!


A piece of 3M Scotchbrite (I use the metal rated one) makes the "Glue ghost" disappear ;)
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#11 GP@AZ

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Posted 05 June 2009 - 06:07 PM

I have a Bitzenburger fetching jig with a right helical twist. I used to use Goat Tough glue, I found it does not work as well as Fast Fletch. I just recently purchase a Blazer jig only The Bohning Blazer fletching jig Helix. I love it! It does a great job fletching Blazer vanes with a 3 deg helical. The Bohning jig comes with instructions for preparing and cleaning arrow shafts for flecthing. Great product at a great price. found on EBay with free shipping.

Edited by GP@AZ, 05 June 2009 - 06:08 PM.





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