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Fletching Problem


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#1 FrankSr

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Posted 07 June 2010 - 07:54 PM

I have some beman ICS Hunter elites. I cannot keep the fletching on. I cleaned with acetone just like I always do. I used boning platinum glue. I also cleaned my vanes. let them completely dry for a few days. Took them out and shot and when the arrow hit target the vanes flew off. not just one but all three. Tried another arrow and the same thing happened again. Help! I did everything I do with my goldtips and they never do that.

#2 Straightedge

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Posted 07 June 2010 - 08:08 PM

I do the same thing with my arrows except they are Easton ST Epics. I rough up the vane bases with fine sandpaper too. That seemed to help. I am going to begin washing the vanes in Simple Green and allowing them to dry to improve the bond.

#3 Jeremiah

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Posted 07 June 2010 - 09:17 PM

First, I'm not a fan of any solvent-based glue (such as Fletch-Tite... even the Platinum) on carbon arrows. I'm completely sold out to Cyanoacrylate (a.k.a. "Super" Glue) products for fletching on carbon arrows as it's a lot faster and generally provides a stronger bond than anything else going. (Seriously, you can not pull my vanes off if you tried. Only a blade is taking them off.) But, that's just my personal preference and, truthfully, not likely the problem.

I would look to the arrow shaft itself first. Generally, Easton (and Beman) carbon arrows have a smoother and less porous finish than most. (Some actually have a lacquer-like finish on them to achieve this.) I find that scrubbing at least the portion to be fletched with "Comet" or "Ajax" and a "scrubby sponge" (a sponge on one side and green Scotch-Brite pad type surface on the other side) in regular tap water to be just right for actually prepping such arrow shafts. (It provides just enough "scuff" without the risk of going overboard while simultaneously removing unwanted residue.) Your GoldTip arrows, by contrast, had a much rougher/porous surface to accept the fletching adhesive right out of the package (even if they felt smooth to you).

As for prep of the fletching itself... That totally depends on the product. Most Bohning vanes have an accelerant on the base that you usually don't want to wipe away with any sort of acetone, alcohol, or other cleaner while some other brands should definitely be cleaned out of the package.

Trial and error is often best. I'd be willing to say if you gave the scubber and some regular super glue (Loc-Tite, Gorilla, Krazy... whatever) a try that the results would be good though. If all else fails, you could also always try an arrow wrap. I haven't found too many adhesive/fletching combos that don't stick well to them. Plus, they look good and make finding your arrows easier after the shot while hunting.

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#4 Rowdy Yates

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Posted 08 June 2010 - 07:28 AM

I use to use goat tuff glue. Don't anymore since I went to Loctite super glue gel, gel is the key word. You can find it in most Lowes stores. I don't clean shafts or the vanes since going to this. I also use it on inserts and they hold pretty good. I mainly use Bohning Blazer 2" vanes and they have a reputation for not staying on the arrow. With a thin line of this stuff they aren't a problem. Now I will add this glue is a bit difficult to re-fletch after using it. It's tough to get it off the shaft unless you use wraps. I hope that's some help.
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#5 FrankSr

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Posted 08 June 2010 - 04:07 PM

thanks guys I will try the scrubbing and super glue.

#6 Leo

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Posted 09 June 2010 - 11:10 AM

I need to add here that timing is important!

What is interferring with the glue is the mold release that is in the resin for manufacturing purposes. This mold release does not link up with the resin and naturally migrates to the surface of the composite. This keeps the arrows from sticking in the dies when they make them but the stuff does continue to leach to the surface over time.

Your best luck will be using the scrubby and then immediately gluing on the fletches. The longer you wait the less effective the gluing will be because more mold release will leach to the surface.

So resist the urge to pre-stage your work by scrubbing a bunch and then trying to glue them. Time is your enemy here!

This is more critical on newer shafts than older ones because on the older ones you stand a better chance of completely removing the mold release. In short there has been enough time for it all to leach out.

Hope that helps.

BTW, I really like using the Loctite Super Glue Gel fletching carbon arrows. It's really very good for that.
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