Posted 07 June 2010 - 07:54 PM
Posted 07 June 2010 - 08:08 PM
Posted 07 June 2010 - 09:17 PM
I would look to the arrow shaft itself first. Generally, Easton (and Beman) carbon arrows have a smoother and less porous finish than most. (Some actually have a lacquer-like finish on them to achieve this.) I find that scrubbing at least the portion to be fletched with "Comet" or "Ajax" and a "scrubby sponge" (a sponge on one side and green Scotch-Brite pad type surface on the other side) in regular tap water to be just right for actually prepping such arrow shafts. (It provides just enough "scuff" without the risk of going overboard while simultaneously removing unwanted residue.) Your GoldTip arrows, by contrast, had a much rougher/porous surface to accept the fletching adhesive right out of the package (even if they felt smooth to you).
As for prep of the fletching itself... That totally depends on the product. Most Bohning vanes have an accelerant on the base that you usually don't want to wipe away with any sort of acetone, alcohol, or other cleaner while some other brands should definitely be cleaned out of the package.
Trial and error is often best. I'd be willing to say if you gave the scubber and some regular super glue (Loc-Tite, Gorilla, Krazy... whatever) a try that the results would be good though. If all else fails, you could also always try an arrow wrap. I haven't found too many adhesive/fletching combos that don't stick well to them. Plus, they look good and make finding your arrows easier after the shot while hunting.
PA IHEA & NBEF/IBEP Instructor
Posted 08 June 2010 - 07:28 AM
Posted 09 June 2010 - 11:10 AM
What is interferring with the glue is the mold release that is in the resin for manufacturing purposes. This mold release does not link up with the resin and naturally migrates to the surface of the composite. This keeps the arrows from sticking in the dies when they make them but the stuff does continue to leach to the surface over time.
Your best luck will be using the scrubby and then immediately gluing on the fletches. The longer you wait the less effective the gluing will be because more mold release will leach to the surface.
So resist the urge to pre-stage your work by scrubbing a bunch and then trying to glue them. Time is your enemy here!
This is more critical on newer shafts than older ones because on the older ones you stand a better chance of completely removing the mold release. In short there has been enough time for it all to leach out.
Hope that helps.
BTW, I really like using the Loctite Super Glue Gel fletching carbon arrows. It's really very good for that.
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