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60 Yard Broadhead Practice


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#1 Leo

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Posted 17 June 2010 - 07:07 PM

Did some 60 yard broadhead shooting today. Shooting at this distance was necessary to calibrate my sight tape on my HHA slider sight. This is a 125 gr Slicktrick standard and a 125 gr Rocket Stricknine. I am much more comfortable limiting my shots to 40 yds and under but I wanted the most accurate sight tape selection possible. I also wanted it to be correct for the broadheads I use. I didn't want to change sight tapes just before the hunt, so I've been doing a lot of broadhead practice lately.

The Slicktrick fixed heads fly as good as the Rocket Stricknine mechanicals out to 60 yards! I was impressed. I've done a lot of bow tuning to get to this point. I'm very happy with the results!

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#2 PA RIDGE RUNNER

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Posted 18 June 2010 - 04:46 AM

That is some good shooting Leo. Nothing like stretching your comfort zone. I have always felt I could shoot better at a shorter distance by practicing at a longer distance even though I never planned on actually hunting at the longer distance.
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#3 Rowdy Yates

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Posted 18 June 2010 - 08:27 AM

That's impressive. Thanks for sharing that with us. Is this the first time using the Slicktricks?

You're only as good as your worst shot and both of those are in the kill zone. Keep it up and I'm sure your confidence will get the arrow in the zone.

Edited by Rowdy Yates, 18 June 2010 - 08:29 AM.

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#4 Leo

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Posted 18 June 2010 - 09:10 AM

That's impressive. Thanks for sharing that with us. Is this the first time using the Slicktricks?

You're only as good as your worst shot and both of those are in the kill zone. Keep it up and I'm sure your confidence will get the arrow in the zone.


Yes this is the first year I've tried the Slicktricks. They were recommended to me by the PH I'll be hunting with in Africa. He practices with them out to 60 yards and told me I'd be impressed with them. He's also killed several plains game with them. I plan on taking both the Stricknines and Slicktricks to Africa!

The broadhead tuning exercise was worth it. The most useful point of broadhead tuning is optimizing your draw weight for arrow spine at 30 yards. Even if you shoot mechanicals this exercise with a fixed head broadhead will improve the tune on your bow ;)
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#5 Hatchet Jack

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Posted 20 June 2010 - 10:00 AM

Doing a bit of that myself Leo - very nice broadhead grouping brother.

So far I'm shooting fieldpoints because I've gone back to aluminum and have been playing with shaft sizes and fletching to get the best arrow flight/combination. So far I'm set on 2317's with 5" feathers and very happy with the results. Thursday I shot three groups about the size of a softball at 60 yards.

I'm ready to strap on the broadheads and give it a go. I'm preparing for Wyoming pronghorns and plan to shoot through mesh so it's important to me to have fixed blade heads. I'd be interested to know if your broadheads were significantly different from your fieldpoints.
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#6 Leo

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Posted 20 June 2010 - 10:24 AM

At 60 yds the field points don't group with the broadheads close enough IMO. Under 40 yards yes they do, no problem. It's interesting because the Stricknines are mechanicals and yet they still fly with the fixed Slicktricks out to 60 yds.

If I personally planned on shooting through mesh out to 60 yards, I would try it a couple times to see if the mesh made any difference at that distance. My gut tells me that out that far, the mesh absolutely will make a difference.

In general the "flies like fieldpoint" claims fall apart at around 35 yards. There are exceptions of course. But at 60yds it's best you know exactly where that broadhead is hitting, by doing some of your own testing.
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#7 Hatchet Jack

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Posted 21 June 2010 - 04:31 AM

Couldn't agree more Leo. I'm kind of crawling along step at a time because i'm changing everything. I'm pretty well settled on the 2317 arrow shafts and I'm likeing the length, spine and other characteristics of the shafts and they do group nicely at 60 with field points, but I may yet play around with some vanes before staying with 5" feathers. Feathers look nice and they do fly nice, but they are a pain to keep in good shape.

After i get the arrow and fletch combo that I'm going to stay with, it's time to move to broadheads and then broadheads seated, then broadheads seated in the blind through the mesh. I'm a firm believer in the SEAL motto: Fight like you train - train like you fight.
"The Lord bless and keep you. The Lord make His face shine upon you and be gracious to you. The Lord turn His face toward you and give you peace." Num 6:24-26

#8 Chrud

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Posted 21 June 2010 - 06:00 AM

Great shooting, Leo! I can't wait to give my Slick Tricks a try.

#9 Rowdy Yates

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Posted 21 June 2010 - 07:49 AM

I know for a fact that shooting thru mesh screening will change the POI out past 30 yards.
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#10 Leo

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Posted 21 June 2010 - 08:28 AM

Great shooting, Leo! I can't wait to give my Slick Tricks a try.


Thanks Matt.

My advise is to make sure you go through the exercise of broadhead tuning per Easton's diagram in my broadhead tuning post. IMO, the goal of broadhead tuning should be to optimize your draw weight for best arrow flight. Your field point flight and mechanical broadhead flight will benefit as well from this exercise. My bow is now set at 68 1/2 lbs, not because I can't draw any heavier but because at that weight I get the best accuracy out of my setup.
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#11 Leo

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Posted 21 June 2010 - 08:36 AM

Couldn't agree more Leo. I'm kind of crawling along step at a time because i'm changing everything. I'm pretty well settled on the 2317 arrow shafts and I'm likeing the length, spine and other characteristics of the shafts and they do group nicely at 60 with field points, but I may yet play around with some vanes before staying with 5" feathers. Feathers look nice and they do fly nice, but they are a pain to keep in good shape.

After i get the arrow and fletch combo that I'm going to stay with, it's time to move to broadheads and then broadheads seated, then broadheads seated in the blind through the mesh. I'm a firm believer in the SEAL motto: Fight like you train - train like you fight.


I used to shoot 2317's. IMO, long fletchings are the way to go with them. They are stiff and heavy and need all the stabilization on the back end you can give them.

FOB's might be worth a try. I tried them on my setup but I have to spread the loop out very wide to keep them from being pinched by the string. I have a short axle to axle bow and a long draw. That means lots of string pinch. I can setup around this but I've got a lot of Blazers to shoot yet.
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#12 Rowdy Yates

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Posted 28 June 2010 - 12:52 PM

Thanks Matt.

My advise is to make sure you go through the exercise of broadhead tuning per Easton's diagram in my broadhead tuning post. IMO, the goal of broadhead tuning should be to optimize your draw weight for best arrow flight. Your field point flight and mechanical broadhead flight will benefit as well from this exercise. My bow is now set at 68 1/2 lbs, not because I can't draw any heavier but because at that weight I get the best accuracy out of my setup.


This past year shooting a bow that I had to increase the spine of my arrows for my setup made me more aware of spine than with my other setups. Leo out of curiosity what spine and length arrows are you using?

Edited by Rowdy Yates, 28 June 2010 - 12:54 PM.

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#13 Leo

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Posted 28 June 2010 - 04:08 PM

This past year shooting a bow that I had to increase the spine of my arrows for my setup made me more aware of spine than with my other setups. Leo out of curiosity what spine and length arrows are you using?


PSE X-Weave 300s cut to 27 1/4" (they can't be any shorter!) with a 125 grn head. The X-Weave 300s are essentially equivalent to Carbon Express 350s in my setup. Note that I have a 31" draw and a very aggressive cam on my Bowtech. The cam profile can have an enormous influence on spine.
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#14 Rowdy Yates

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Posted 28 June 2010 - 07:48 PM

PSE X-Weave 300s cut to 27 1/4" (they can't be any shorter!) with a 125 grn head. The X-Weave 300s are essentially equivalent to Carbon Express 350s in my setup. Note that I have a 31" draw and a very aggressive cam on my Bowtech. The cam profile can have an enormous influence on spine.




http://www.carbonexp...wDrawWeight.pdf
If you do this simple exercise it is agreeing with your saying the cam has a lot to do with what spine you should be using. I'm betting you should be using .330 or stiffer spine and put that bow at 70# but you already know that. Posted Image

Edited by Rowdy Yates, 28 June 2010 - 07:52 PM.

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#15 Leo

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Posted 28 June 2010 - 09:48 PM

http://www.carbonexp...wDrawWeight.pdf
If you do this simple exercise it is agreeing with your saying the cam has a lot to do with what spine you should be using. I'm betting you should be using .330 or stiffer spine and put that bow at 70# but you already know that. Posted Image


The CE 350's really are essentially equivalent to the PSE300's. The carbon express designation of 350 spine in reality is 0.337" for the Maxima hunters. The PSE x-weave is somewhat stiffer than their spine designation would lead you to believe. The PSE 300 X-Weave's actual spine is 0.340" They are really close.

If the shafts were the same weight then .330 is a good guess to get the draw weight to 70lbs. However, if they weighed more I'd need stiffer.

The bow is only rated for 70# and I've got two dozen PSE arrows I need to use up before I crank it up another 1.5lbs and buy new shafts.
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