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Picking A Bow....


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#1 Whitetiger

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Posted 10 July 2010 - 09:42 PM

I still have my 1st bow. It's a PSE Beast & is about 8-9 yrs old. Theres no cracks I can find in the limbs....yet. But I was looking at my new bible that came to me via Cabela's- The Hard cover catalog. My next bow is going to have parrallel limbs. I was looking at the Brute Lite. Has anyone tested one yet? My question is about draw weight. At what point does draw weight affect accuracy? If I get one thats 50-60 lbs draw weight or 60-70 lbs, is peak performance around the mid #? I shoot 27" maxima carbon arrows with a 100 grain muzzy's and blazer veins. When Im out of carbons, I switch to easton aluminum XX75's with a 4 inch vein & same heads. I dont remember what I have my bow draw weight set at right now. I realize your most accurate when you can smoothly draw the bow & hold it.

Theres my question but Im not sure if I've asked it right.

Edited by Whitetiger, 10 July 2010 - 09:44 PM.


#2 Rowdy Yates

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Posted 11 July 2010 - 01:02 PM

I still have my 1st bow. It's a PSE Beast & is about 8-9 yrs old. Theres no cracks I can find in the limbs....yet. But I was looking at my new bible that came to me via Cabela's- The Hard cover catalog. My next bow is going to have parrallel limbs. I was looking at the Brute Lite. Has anyone tested one yet? My question is about draw weight. At what point does draw weight affect accuracy? If I get one thats 50-60 lbs draw weight or 60-70 lbs, is peak performance around the mid #? I shoot 27" maxima carbon arrows with a 100 grain muzzy's and blazer veins. When Im out of carbons, I switch to easton aluminum XX75's with a 4 inch vein & same heads. I dont remember what I have my bow draw weight set at right now. I realize your most accurate when you can smoothly draw the bow & hold it.

Theres my question but Im not sure if I've asked it right.

You answered it yourself. It depends on what's comfortable for you to draw and hold (while I assume is geared toward bow hunting verses target shooting). To me either draw weight can kill anything in North America if you're accurate. Peak performance is really at the top of the draw weight for the bow. That's where all the energy is going to be peaked and released into the arrow so if you have a 60/70 pound bow it will perform at it highest energy level at or near 70#. For instance if you look at the IBO speed ratings for a bow the bow is set at it's peak length and weight for testing purposes or at its highest energy level to get that speed rating. Plus matching it with a very light arrow as compared to a regular hunting arrow weight.
I'd recommend you take your bow into an archery shop and get the draw weight measured to give you some idea what it is now. I'd also recommend buying from an archery shop verses at a Cabelas or Bass Pro Shop only because most archery shops have better trained techs for archery. The Cabelas I've been in suck badly when it comes to trained experienced archery staff. Plus you can shoot some other bows while you're in their shop to get a feel for what technology has done in the last 9 years.

If you're comfortable with the bow you mentioned then try the different draw weights out before commiting to that buy with your hunting arrows. To me shooting the bow I'm interested in before buying it is very important.

New bows are a blast - have fun and let us know how it all shakes out and what you end up with.
"Keep the sun forever at your back, the wind forever in your face, and may forever God bless you out there on the trail."

#3 Leo

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Posted 11 July 2010 - 02:01 PM

IMHO if you are looking at PSE's I would definitely recommend you try shooting one of their Bow Madness bows. ;)
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