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Remove Rust Or Just Oil Over It?


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#1 old fart

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Posted 31 July 2012 - 09:00 PM

i have a chance to pick up a rough rider at a real cheap price and i can make small payments, the cylinder locks up good and tight and it works great. the only problem is rust, it has speckled area's of rust on the barrel and cylinder. there's rust near the sight, and where it attaches to the frame, and just little speckled area's here and there on the cylinder, the rust isn't bad just noticable. my question is this first would it be ok to just oil over the rust with rem oil, tri flo, or slip 2000?, those are the oils i have. would keeping it oiled keep the rust from getting worse? second if i have to remove it what is the easiest and best way?, i don't want to refinish it if i don't have too. thanks for any help



#2 PA RIDGE RUNNER

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Posted 31 July 2012 - 09:05 PM

I guess if it has any collector value it may be best to leave it. If I find a spot like on my Win 1300 this spring that was carried in some pretty wet weather I took 0000 steel wool to it and the rust disappeared. I oiled well and no rust returned.
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#3 Leo

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Posted 01 August 2012 - 08:43 AM

Removing the rust is the best way to stop it. Typically oiling over it merely slows down the process but doesn't stop it.

Fine steel wool works for removing rust. I prefer using fine Scotchbrite pads over steel wool. You must be very careful and absolutely sure you clean the gun thoroughly with a gun scrubber spray and wipe down with a clean cloth after using an abrasive to remove the rust. Steel wool leaves fine metal particles on the weapon. These small particles can become rust spots on the weapon if not removed. The Scotchbrite pads don't leave the metal particles but they do leave some of the rust particles around the area. These fine rust particles also may serve as accelerator points to start rust on other areas of the firearm. Think of them as almost invisible "rust seeds". If left on the firearm, rust starts to grow where ever they lay.

I cannot emphasize enough how important it is to use a gun scrubber spray and wipe down after using an abrasive to remove rust. You can quite literally make things much worse if you ignore this step. Sometimes it is advisable to disassemble the part with rust from the firearm before attempting rust removal. If you can not clean the part without being absolutely certain particles will not get on other parts or in locations you cannot reach, you should remove the part before attempting to remove the rust.

Bluing is actually a form of oxidation but it is protective and not active. If after you remove the rust you can see bright metal that area should be re-blued.
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#4 REDGREEN

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Posted 01 August 2012 - 08:46 AM

As PA stayed, 0000 steel wool will take care of the problem for you. Rebluing is pretty easy. Tear it apart, clean it up, spray everything down with airbrake cleaner, reblue and then oil it up, and it will look like a new toy.

Edited by REDGREEN, 01 August 2012 - 08:47 AM.


#5 old fart

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Posted 06 August 2012 - 08:09 AM

what about permatex rust treatment?, i've heard that it can be used on guns but i don't know. thanks

#6 PA RIDGE RUNNER

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Posted 06 August 2012 - 10:20 AM

I am not aware of permatex rust treatment. As Leo stated blueing is a form of rust so I would be careful in what I would use on my guns.
If God had a refrigerator would your picture be on it.
Remember the Ark was built by amateurs, the titanic by professionals.




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